Farmer Training Students Look Ahead to Building a Sustainable Food System

graduation Amount made from selling fresh produce at the UVM Farm Stand: $6,000. Pounds of harvested food donated to the local food shelf: 2,150. Number of bed feet planted in the fields: over 40,000. Number of farmers, agricultural specialists, extension agents, and UVM professors who students were exposed to: over 50. Number of days on the farm with no dancing: 0

Students in the UVM Farmer Training Program graduated last week in a heartwarming, intimate ceremony that included a by-the-numbers account of their days at Catamount Farm, personal haikus for each student, photo slide shows, as well as an abundance of hugs and laughter.

But the work these 21 students plan to do after graduation is serious business.

UVM Continuing and Distance Education Dean Cynthia Belliveau, PhD, a chef, environmentalist, and educator, started the program six years ago. She gave students the following words of wisdom in her commencement speech:

“We’ve heard many times that our food system is broken. Yes, it provides unparalleled productivity, but at an incredible cost. It has become entangled in unacceptable levels of diet-related health problems for humans and animals, food-borne disease, hunger, and devastating agricultural pollution.

Our economy is suffering, and our social and cultural connectedness – for so many centuries epitomized by people coming together to cook and to eat, to share with one another – is disappearing.

Wendell Berry said, ‘We have lived our lives by the assumption that what was good for us would be good for the world. We have been wrong. We must change our lives so that it will be possible to live by the contrary assumption, that what is good for the world will be good for us.’

Standing here today, I am optimistic. I’m convinced that we can build an alternative food economy because you now have the skills to create it. Already, local and organic agriculture is growing far faster than other conventional sectors as a whole. This is a movement, and you are its next leaders.”

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Two Indignant Chefs: On Apples

P1030465Chefs Justine and Esteban spend their days asking what’s happening to good food. They rail against the loss of seasonality, foodies who treat food as too precious, and taste buds that don’t remember simple, elegant flavors.

It’s apple season, and what an abundant year we’ve had in Vermont. Neighbors are calling neighbors, begging anyone to come pick before all the branches on their trees break off. Hordes of Vermonters are visiting their local orchards, with ladders and bags in hand. Recipes are everywhere for everything from pies to butter. Vermont’s apple heritage is well known. Our climate is perfect for growing many different varieties of heirloom apples. In fact, 100 years ago, Vermont had more than 50 different varieties, from Macoun to Baldwin to Rhode Island Greening. Today, you’d be hard pressed (pun intended) to find more than four types – Macintosh, Empire, Delicious, and Gala in your local grocery store. Not sure why, but just like everything else, maybe too much variety complicates the distribution system.

Which brings us to the day’s query: “What is it about the Red Delicious that’s made it so damn popular?”

A couple of weeks ago, while doing some quick grocery shopping in a big grocery chain in Burlington, there was a large display of Red Delicious apples in the produce section. Seriously, when you think about it, it’s an icon, featured on the teacher’s desk, taunting Adam in the Garden of Eden, and pictured in the adage, “An apple a day keeps the doctor away.” Bemoaning this bland, mealy apple as we approached the display, we went from quiet grumbling to sputtering outrage. To our surprise, these tasteless Vermont Red Delicious were not from Vermont at all. Instead, this mountain of reds, featured so prominently, were from – Washington State!

Come on, really? Why on earth would this store buy apples from clear across the country, when they are literally falling off the trees here? Perhaps it’s just like the tomato situation in our last blog, meaning maybe they’re just cheaper. Or are the purchasers too lazy to source locally? Or do people not care or notice?

We’re not buying it. Maybe there are certain foods that Vermonters couldn’t care less about, but surely not Vermont apples. We say eat Vermont apples – all different kinds like Tompkin County King, Northern Spy, Fameuse/Snow, and Esopus Spitzenberg – and swear off Washington reds, Granny Smiths, and any other apple that doesn’t come from here. Go apple picking or visit your local farmer’s market and make the recipe below with this wonderful mix of apples from our local orchards.

Apple Crisp (Serves 6)

Ingredients:

4 C Vermont Cortland apples or a mix of any other VT crisp, medium tart apple), peeled, cored and sliced

¾ C dark brown sugar

½ C King Arthur – all-purpose flour

½ C VT quick-cooked oats

1/3 C VT butter, softened

¾ t ground cinnamon

¼ t ground nutmeg

VT whipped cream or ice cream for topping, if desired

Directions:

  1. Pre-heat oven to 375ºF. Butter the bottom and sides of an 8-inch square pan.
  2. Spread sliced apples on the bottom of the pan.
  3. Stir remaining ingredients until well mixed and spread over apples
  4. Bake for 30 minutes or until the topping is caramelized and apples are tender when pierced with a fork.
  5. Serve warm with cream or ice cream.
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A week on the farm: Fall in full force

by Molly Leebove, UVM Farmer Training Program Staff

Fridays throughout the growing season, we will post a few photos from the past week at UVM’s Catamount Educational Farm and the UVM Farmer Training Program. From these you will get a glimpse of the farm season as it unfolds and witness the evolution of these aspiring farmers as they grow into bonafide farmers.

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Participatory documentation of grassroots food and agriculture in Vermont: @vtfoodroots

vtfoodroots.Imageby Shannon Esrich

@vtfoodroots is a partnership between the UVM Food Systems Graduate Program and the Vermont Folklife Center to document and share emergent and historical grassroots farming and food in Vermont using Instagram.

We are in the midst of an agricultural renaissance in the United States, one that emphasizes smaller scale farming, locally grown and locally distributed agricultural products, and the manufacture of specialty food items crafted for local and regional consumption. This broader movement, framed by Tanya Denckla Cobb as “the grassroots food movement,” seeks to re-localize agricultural output and consumption, and represents a fundamental shift in long-standing agricultural practice and policy in the United States.

Vermont is one of the states at the forefront of these national efforts to reinvent farming, food production and distribution. Farming has held a central role in the culture and economy of Vermont since the colonial period. The current explosion of grassroots agriculture in the state draws on this long history, mixing a legacy of methods and philosophy with contemporary ideas, needs and goals.

Join the revolution and share your pictures on Instagram using #vtfoodroots!

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Two Indignant Chefs: On Tomatoes

Capresse (2)Chefs Justine and Esteban spend their days asking what’s happening to good food. They rail against the loss of seasonality, foodies who treat food as too precious, and taste buds that don’t remember simple, elegant flavors.

Tomato season is winding down, and what a wonderful season it’s been. Succulent beefsteaks, sweet cherries, and thick romas, fresh-picked and still warm from the sun; with a dash of salt, this is probably the best taste in the world. Food writer Raymond Sokolov wrote during a long train ride from northern Europe to Greece that in his whole dining career, he’d never tasted anything as good as when he bit into the red, ripe tomato an old woman handed him when he stepped out of the train car .

Vine-ripened Vermont tomatoes are plentiful at all the farmer’s markets now, and Vermonters are rushing to preserve the bounty by transforming these delectable orbs into sauces, salsas, chutneys, and relishes. Filled Ball jars line pantries up and down the state, as we try desperately to preserve a little summer for the long, cold winter ahead.

It’s a wonderful but brief season, a month if we are lucky. So our query today is this: why on earth are restaurants and caterers still using pink, hard, tasteless winter tomatoes on their menus? Continue reading

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