Coca Cola Is Coming to Town

oliver2by Oliver Froehling

What could possibly be wrong with a commercial that shows a number of light-skinned hipsters descend on an indigenous village in the mountains of southern Mexico? That features these hipsters building a giant red Christmas-tree-like abomination that prominently features the words “remain united” in Mixe, the local indigenous language, spelled out in tiny lights made of Coca Cola bottle caps? All while photogenically consuming and “sharing” copious amounts of that dark, sugary liquid known as coke, in all of its presentations? Everything, of course.

The racism and colonialist notions of the commercial immediately caught the eye of indigenous activists, and after a short run, the Coca Cola Company pulled the commercial (you can still watch it at https://youtu.be/ZZHA0MwDL0Q ) and apologized by issuing a statement that it only had the best intentions (is there ever anybody who didn’t?). It stated that its message of friendship and equality had been misinterpreted, that in fact it had been designed as a way to fight prejudice, presumably by uniting all the consumers equally in a sugar high and universally increasing the rate of adult-onset diabetes.

It is this health aspect that features strongly in a reply by indigenous students from that same region, who produced their own version of the commercial (https://youtu.be/vJC6hGZyQos) pointing out the detrimental effects increased soft drink consumption has had in rural communities throughout Mexico.

Coca Cola is not new to communities. Its presence dates back to the 1920s, and it has become a staple in the majority of households, festivities, and even religious rituals in some areas. Soft drinks in general have long been part and parcel of the modernization of the country. As a result, Mexico now has the fourth-highest per capita soft drink consumption in the world. The consequences are visible: Mexico leads the world in child obesity, and diabetes has become an epidemic. Mexico now has the dubious honor of ranking number one in sugared beverage related deaths, according to a study by Tufts University. As a result, there have been a number of initiatives aimed at lowering soft drink consumption, from increased taxes on soft drinks to PR campaigns by government agencies and private entities.

As the number one soft drink producer in Mexico, Coca Cola is now under siege, and just like any other industry that is under scrutiny, its reaction is green washing. It is pouring money into PR campaigns that play up the angle of sustainability and social responsibility. The introduction of green-labeled Coca Cola Life, its venture into the carbon credit market, and a wealth of imagery that links Coke to nature (and thereby implicitly to health) are all part of this re-branding campaign.

As the backlash against this latest commercial shows, however, even highly paid PR firms often underestimate the public’s intelligence.

Oliver Froehling lives in Oaxaca, Mexico, where he co-founded SURCO, a center for autonomous education and local activism. He is also a faculty member of UVM’s Oaxaca Semester Abroad.

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Two Indignant Chefs: On Papaya and Other Hawaiian Food

IMG_3868Chefs Justine and Esteban spend their days asking what’s happening to good food. They rail against the loss of seasonality, foodies who treat food as too precious, and taste buds that don’t remember simple, elegant flavors.

Aloha from Hawaii! We are relaxing at a lush resort on the Big Island (the biggest one at the bottom of the Hawaiian chain), and wow, is it beautiful. The dried lava flows are everywhere, making for an eerie landscape of rugged blackness as far as the eye can see. The beaches of white sand and aquamarine water, dotted with palm trees, and juxtaposed with the lava are reminiscent of every tropical-island movie you’ve ever seen. Paradise is the word that comes to mind, a land of food abundance, which is why we’re annoyed (again).

The Big Island has a vibrant agricultural scene that produces a wealth of local fruits and vegetables, as well as grass-fed beef raised on acres of nutritious grasses high on the plains of the spent volcanoes. The crab, ahi, pollack, and farm-raised lobster and shrimp are plentiful and mostly served raw in what the locals call poke (pronounced POH-kay). Poke is made by using all the ends or small pieces of fish or shellfish left from the prime pieces and mixed with different concoctions consisting of soy, teriyaki, lime, fruit, and/or other fantastic fusions. Continue reading

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Climate Talks and the Future of Farming

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Hopefully you are already paying attention to the climate talks in Paris because you understand that this might be our last and best hope of achieving a desperately needed binding international agreement to stifle climate change. If that is too overwhelming of an entry point for engagement, and like me, you think about food and farming constantly, here is a development that might grab your attention.

The capture of carbon in the soil through appropriate farming techniques has been highlighted as a critical component of our global response to climate change. This might seem obvious on the surface, but it is a game changer. This acknowledgement validates regenerative, small farm systems and pushes industrial agriculture to adapt their practices. Pay attention! Care! Here are a few articles that have come out in the last week about farming and the climate talks. Read and digest. Share other compelling articles you are reading. We have important work ahead of us.

Carbon Farming Gets a Nod at Paris Climate Conference, NPR

The Costs and Benefits of Agriculture, Food Tank

US Leadership at Paris Climate Talks Critical to Future of Agriculture, The Hill

The Elephant in the Room at Paris Climate Talks: Why Food Production Must Change, The Conversation

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The Farminary: Where Soul and Soil Meet

image001By Sharon Daloz Parks

Scanning the slick, beautifully designed, annual donors report from Princeton Theological Seminary (I’m a ’66 alum), I discovered a two-page layout, titled “Back to Earth,” featuring a full-page photo of a guy kneeling at the edge of a raised bed, with his hands in the dirt harvesting vegetables—a poster boy for the new “Farminary Project.” I was shocked.

My seminary experience featured meaningful classroom, library, and student-faculty conversations, but in a context I would later describe as “Pristine Princeton.” The seminary was set apart significantly from the “real world,” featuring staid and somewhat sterile Calvinist architecture adjacent to the University’s gothic sculpted buildings, a main street featuring a few respectable shops and ho-hum eateries surrounded by traditional gracious homes and manicured lawns framed by well-established trees—all conducive to the cultivation of the higher life of the mind, somehow even curbing any undue undergrad boisterousness. Food was not on the seminary agenda. My most memorable dinner in the student dining hall featured only a bland tomato and rice soup, followed by an uninspired rice casserole entre, with, yes, rice pudding for dessert (no raisins).

To my surprise, today Princeton Seminary’s “Farminary Project” integrates fully accredited theological education with small-scale sustainable agriculture. The Farminary recognizes that there is a profound correlation between the agrarian, who cultivates the flourishing of life throughout an ecosystem, and a faithful religious leader, who promotes the well-being of a community and the wider commons, holding life and death through the seasons, “within the world that God loves.”

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Slow Fish Workshop at UVM

by Sarah Shaffer

Last weekend Real Food Revolution and Slow Food UVM co-hosted a Slow Fish Workshop on campus. Slow Fish is a branch of Slow Food International, committed to “bringing about change by returning to the origins of food, putting curiosity and pleasure at the service of responsible choices.” Slow Fish is dedicated to fulfilling the goals of Slow Food by sharing the importance of artisanal fishing practices, and the inclusion of neglected fish species our diets.

Organizers of the event aimed to reconnect students and the greater UVM community with their food by learning how to prepare a variety of local aquatic species. To kick things off, Spencer Montgomery, a Community Organizer for Slow Fish USA, shared his experience as a young, local fisherman and the importance of building connections with local fisheries in the same way many people make connections with local farms. Continue reading

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