Food Security and Smallholder Coffee Production: Current Issues and Future Directions

After the Harvest, a website and blog supported by Green Mountain Coffee Roasters which specifically targets the coffee industry, recently posted of a policy brief on food security and smallholder coffee farmers ( “Food Security and Smallholder Coffee Production: Current Issues and Future Directions.”). The brief was developed and led by UVM professor V. Ernesto Mendez and covers the topics of food security and food sovereignty among smallholder coffee farmers.

After the Harvest writes:

“The world of coffee is complex.  In between when the coffee bean is picked and you eagerly brew your cup of coffee, there is a long chain of processes and people that have to come together to make it all happen. It is relatively easy for the consumer to imagine the production process from importer or roaster on, but far more challenging to envision, or try to relate to, the farmer that harvested that coffee.

You already know about “los meses flacos” or “the thin months” and what they represent: a period of food scarcity that is commonplace among isolated rural farmers globally.  It is not unique to those who grow coffee, but appears to be a frequent occurrence for smallholder coffee farmers who have limited land holdings and have weighted their land-use investment toward the coffee cash crop.

A recent publication by Professor V. Ernesto Méndez and Martha Caswell, members of the Agroecology and Rural Livelihood Group at the University of Vermont, in conjunction with Christopher M. Bacon in the Department of Environmental Studies and Sciences at Santa Clara University, looks at just this subject. We invite you to check it out here: “Food Security and Smallholder Coffee Production: Current Issues and Future Directions.”

In this policy brief, you can learn about contributing factors, existing research on food insecurity in the coffeelands, and answer a call for promising strategies to address the issue. They acknowledge that although the industry recognizes “…that food insecurity per­sists in coffee-producing communities, we are still grap­pling with understanding the particular dynamics be­tween coffee production and food security.”

As you read the policy brief, we invite you to let us know what’s on your mind. Send us any questions or comments that you may have.”

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New UVM Working Group Launches: Gender, Class & Food

You know those 1950’s refrigerator commercials? The iconic 50’s mother (well, probably a mom. It depends on the ad’s target audience) showing off her perfect new Frigidaire refrigerator to her husband. If you have no idea what I’m talking about, take a glance at the example below.

See what I mean?

While this type of commercial is not typical in this day and age, it is an illustration of how women have been connected to the kitchen, food, and the feeding of others since, well, forever. Believe me — I may have given you a 50’s example, but these connections go much further back than that.

But why should you believe me? How much further you might ask? And why women specifically? Aren’t most men grilling and cooking and “chefing” and all that today?

Once you start asking these types of questions, you might move further and ponder whether or not cooking is a “woman’s” task today and if it really is in decline, both serious contemplations of modern media.

University of Vermont faculty are just as curious, and they plan to investigate.

This semester, a group of faculty from all over campus has decided to create a collaborative project on gender, class, and food work. Felicia Kornbluh, professor of history and the director of Women and Gender Studies at UVM, reached out to University faculty early in the Fall 2012 to see if there was any interest in women and food issues. The response she got was impressive. So far, more than 20 faculty have expressed interest.

And what interests they have! Sitting at one meeting is like sitting at a five-star potluck of ideas and creative passion. There’s interest in female obesity patterns, female rhetoric in back-to-the-land movements, and the impact of immigration on an individual’s eating patterns. Phew — and that’s just the tip of the iceberg (lettuce … yuk yuk).

Kornbluh opened the group’s most recent meeting with her own new discovery. “I’ve gotten interested in the black Civil Rights movement, and … how the breakfast programs were first tools of the Black Nationalist movement,” she said. “[But] all I’ve found [during my early research] is work on restaurants that became free spaces. Collard greens as a part of the Civil Rights movement is something that I had never considered.”

Amy Trubek, a professor of Nutrition and Food Science and the Director of the new Food Systems Master’s program, smiled at this statement. Much of Trubek’s work focuses on the significance of the food itself in addition to the social and political implications. “I always look at cooking, at food, at the sensory experience [in her research],” she said.

With transdisciplinary research, the group hopes to explore these new avenues, previously under scrutinized. “What’s exciting and challenging about saying and doing transdisciplinary is that so much of people’s disciplines shape how [they] do and form their research and with transdisciplinary work you can take it further,” Trubek said.

Trubek herself is looking for partners to help contribute to her research on the so-called, she says, decline of cooking as women move out of the kitchen and lay less claim to that realm of the world.

“We’ve had a lot of things happen around food systems here [UVM], but we have not had that ‘You read my paper, I’ll read your paper.’ nitty gritty,” Trubek said.

But don’t worry. That’s next up on their plate.

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My Experience at the Breakthrough Leaders Program at UVM

Guest blog post by Shannon Courtney, a member of UVM’s 2012 Class of Breakthrough Leaders for Sustainable Food Systems. Learn more about Shannon in her testimonial.

It’s now been several months since I packed up my car and headed south of the border for The Breakthrough Leaders Program at the University of Vermont (UVM). I had been accepted into the program in late May and was very excited to be taking part in the inaugural year of a program designed to support and develop leaders in the sustainable food movement.

I really had no idea what to expect from the program. All I could predict with any certainty is that I’d be inspired, because Vermont serves inspiration up like it’s going out of style (which, sadly, it is). I had a feeling I’d leave the program with more questions than answers. They’d be good, but challenging questions I’d be forced to ask myself, the type of soul-searching questions that can shift the trajectory of a person’s life. And that is exactly what ended up happening.

But what exactly did the Breakthrough Leaders Program offer up, and what were my key take-aways? I’m not sure I can answer any these questions with great certainty. It is often difficult to pinpoint or articulate how an experience, a particular interaction, a conversation or a combination of these things can contribute to subtle, yet profound shifts in one’s life. All of this is to say that I am having difficulty identifying precisely what it was about the program that made it an invaluable experience, but I will try to share what made the week so special and spectacular.

So as not to keep you waiting, I’ll begin by sharing some of the quotes and concepts from the week that resonated most deeply with me, and that I expect I will return to often for inspiration as my journey continues to unfold:

  • Love is better than anger or hate. You cannot sustain the necessary energy to be engaged in the food movement (or any movement) if you are operating from a place of anger or hate. It will get you only so far. You may start from a place of anger, but it’s imperative that you move to a place of love.
  • Be a Beaver. You can’t continuously worry about what other people are doing in the forest. Find your ‘tree’ and start working on it. Trust that others are working on their trees and together you will build what needs to be built.
  • Information can influence, the heart can change. It’s never easy to sway a person, but I’d place my bets on tugging at someone’s heart strings over showing them a table of data. When I think of great leaders of recent times , I think of the ‘heart’ with which they have led – Martin Luther King Jr., Jack Layton, Jane Jacobs, David Suzuki. Sure, they were all well-educated, informed individuals that could cite facts if need be, but it was their passion and conviction that won many people over.
  • Take Risks Together – This reduces the risk to any one individual and simultaneously develops valuable bonds between the risk-takers.
  • Collaborate – Co-operation is a start, but collaboration suggests a more active effort to integrate ideas, projects and resources to reach a shared vision. This approach seems to have worked miracles in Vermont, maybe it can do so in other places.
  • Dream Big – no sense in dreaming small dreams when we have a whole planet to rescue

But I’m getting ahead of myself, so let’s go back to the beginning of my week at the BLP program….

Heading to the Breakthrough Leaders program I wondered, briefly, if the glean of Vermont would lessen with time, if I’d feel less enamoured with it than I did in 2009 when I lived there briefly while doing field research for my thesis. But, of course, I didn’t. If anything, its beacon shone even brighter, undoubtedly because Canada’s May 2011 election had extinguished any last ray of hope my country might have of being considered progressive or thoughtful. It was summer too, and maybe that made it shine particularly bright. I arrived after a day of driving from Fredericton via Maine, New Hampshire and Vermont to the welcoming arms of Maura and Joe (and Simon, the cat…but he doesn’t have arms, per se), who had so kindly agreed to host me for my first night in Burlington. Somehow they knew I’d need wine and, boy did I! Blueberry crumble was also on offer (yum!).

After a quick catch-up, we all slumbered and then it was Sunday – the first day of the Program. Generally I’m not a fan of the first day of anything, especially the first day of class. Let’s face it, it tends to be awkward and who likes awkward? This time round though, I was simply excited to meet the cohort of others that, like me, wanted to be food revolution leaders. I’d already received a bit of a preview of the people I’d be keeping company with and was truly impressed by the work everyone was doing and the values/reasons that had drawn them into the world of sustainable/local/socially just food. Many were already leading revolutions, from transforming DC’s school lunch program, to starting an urban garden in NYC, to providing families with prepared meals of local, healthy food.

Indeed, I was not disappointed when I finally got to meet the cohort I’d be going through the BLP with. Energetic, optimistic, insightful, friendly – just a few adjectives to describe the group I was a part of. We spent the afternoon getting to know each other and ourselves, with our ‘Top 5 Strengths’ as the focal point of conversations and exercises. After an afternoon of in-class introductions, we were off to dinner with the President of UVM, Dr. John Bramley. As it turns out, Dr. Bramley was instrumental in getting the Breakthrough Leaders Program off the ground and after he spoke to the group, my impressions of him were solidified – this was a man that ‘got it’ and was able to shape his passions and values into something much bigger than himself. If only every institution could be so lucky to have the kind of visionary leadership that UVM was so fortunate to have.

Our curriculum for the week was jam-packed full of in-class learning and field trips, sprinkled liberally with time to eat good food. To speak of the highlights from the week would be to suggest there were lowlights, but there really weren’t any. There were, however, some field trips and some speakers/instructors that resonated deeper with me. I am sure for other students, such a list would be different from mine, but for what it’s worth, these were the most impactful parts of the program for me (in no particular order):

  • The Intervale – We spent Monday morning on the site of The Intervale, a 700 acre piece of land which is located in heart of Burlington. Amongst its roles, The Intervale provides farmers with access to training, land, capital and markets. It also operates a Food Hub, including a multi-farm CSA, and a gleaning program that collects surplus food during the growing season and distributes it to community members in need. But what really struck me about The Intervale was that it all began with one person. That’s right, this amazing non-profit organization that now employs of 15 people and provides valuable resources and services to a multiplicity of stakeholders resulted from the vision and countless hours (years, really) of hard work and perseverance. If you want to learn more, check out the website and read the history of The Intervale.
  • Hardwick – My only regret when I went here with the BLP crew was that we couldn’t stay longer. This is not a place that can be fully experienced in a day. Nevertheless, I think that many in the group were inspired and impressed with the ‘Town that Food Saved’ and the many thriving agri-businesses that we toured while there. As many know, this little town in Northeastern Vermont holds a special place in my heart. It was here that I carried out my field research for my Masters thesis and it is in large part because of the people in this town that my long search for my life’s calling was cemented. I dare you to spend a month in Hardwick and not be changed by it! The town, like many others throughout Vermont, is bursting at the seams with ‘community’. The community bulletin boards are packed with upcoming events to engage the political minds, the artists, entrepreneurs, foodies and plenty of other passions. People have conversations in coffee shops about things that (in my opinion) matter. And there’s always time to stop and say hello to a friendly face as you wander along the street. Time is a gift people are willing to share with each other. In the span of a generation or two, I think many of us have really lost sight of what it is to be part of a community. It is my belief that the only way our species can find its way back to a balanced way of living is through vibrant, tightly-knit communities and I think food is a lynchpin, a game-changer in community development.
  • LaDonna Redmond – LaDonna has a presence about her such that she doesn’t even need to speak and you can sense her power and conviction. When she speaks, however, there is no doubt left that this woman is knows more than a thing or two about ‘Finding Your Voice’. And that, incidentally, was the name of the session she led with the BLP group. She spoke to us about finding our own voices, and led us through exercises that helped us discover our story (the Why of our involvement in the food revolution). This is something I’d been struggling with for awhile. What was MY story? I didn’t come to the food revolution as a down-and-out conventional farmer, I didn’t come as a parent wanting to feed my children properly, I didn’t come as a person sick with cancer that wanted to eliminate pesticides and GMOS from my diet. For the life of me, I couldn’t really pinpoint how I’d found myself on this journey. I knew I wanted to be here, I just couldn’t find my voice. LaDonna helped a lot with that, and in the days and weeks that followed I grew more confident of my voice and dug deep to find my truth, my story.
  • Stephen Ritz – This Bronx high school teacher spoke to our group and then at the Vermont Food Summit (picture a TED-like afternoon of amazing speakers) which we attended. He is a ball of energy and an amazing man. He has transformed his classroom into a living garden of learning and, in the process, is helping to transform the lives of his Bronx students (i.e. the poorest congressional district in the USA), and the community. His TEDtalk will do much greater justice to explaining his achievements and those of his students, than I could, so just go watch it (right after you finish reading this!). He brought three of his graduated students with him and they were also amazing young men.
  • Corie Pierce – Now maybe I’m just a sucker for any story of a successful female farmer and businesswoman, but I have to say that our visit to Bread and Butter Farm and the two opportunities we had to listen to Corie speak (on the farm and at the Summit), left me thinking ‘I want to be like her!’. OK, maybe I don’t want to farm, but I do want to be steering my own ship and making a difference in the lives of others. One piece of advice/widsom that Corie shared with us was that right now, opportunities abound in the farming and food worlds, but that to get there, we’re going to have to forge our own paths. We must be true pioneers, staking out a place in a newly discovered land of opportunity. I believe I am ready.

Those are just few of the highlights. I really could write far more, but I’m sure you’ve other things to do, so I will end with this realization, which came to me on the very last day of Breakthrough Leaders:

We aren’t fighting for a better food system, we are fighting the global and corporate powers that are shaping every facet of our life, as a species, and as individuals. Lord of The Rings and Star Wars have nothing on the 21st century when it comes to ultimate Good vs. Evil tales. Each of us has a chance and, dare I say, a responsibility to the future, to side with the forces of good and fight against these powers. Your fight doesn’t have to be in the world of food. There are so many battles against power conglomerates over basically every single resource or idea worthwhile, from water to a woman’s right to education. All I’m suggesting is that you choose a battle and engage. And while I use ‘fighting’ and ‘battle’ to describe these struggles, I suggest that you leave your armour and your anger at home and go forth wielding love, truth and selflessness.

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RECIPE: Tourtière (French-Canadian Pork Pie)

Tourtiere by jwannie on Flickr.

Tourtière is a traditional French-Canadian meat pie, originating from the Quebec and Acadia regions of Canada. It is traditionally made with minced pork and is highly seasoned with cinnamon, cloves, allspice and nutmeg, but has been made with any regionally available meat, s veal, beef, rabbit, game, or even salmon. Tourtières are accompanied by a sweet or savory condiment, such as cranberry sauce, chili sauce or pickled beets, and are traditionally served as part of the réveillon, a long dinner held on the evenings preceding Christmas or New Year’s (common in French-speaking regions).

Because of the shared border between Vermont and Quebec, regional variations of tourtières are common in Vermont community cookbooks. This simple version is a savory take on the recipe, published in Recipes from Many Lands, One Community (1999) by the Barre Ethnic Heritage Association. This cookbook is available in the University of Vermont’s Department of Special Collections (call number: TX725 A1 B37 1999).

Tourtière

1 lb. ground lean pork
½ cup water
2/3 cup minced onion
1 clove garlic, minced
1 tsp. salt
½ tsp. thyme
½ tsp. sage
¼ tsp. dry mustard
¼ tsp. ground cloves
2 medium sized potatoes, skinned
1 egg, beaten with water (egg wash)
pie crust

In a stove top casserole dish, combine the pork, water and seasonings. Bring water to a boil, reduce to medium low and cook for about 25 minutes, stirring periodically. Meanwhile, boil the two potatoes. When they are cooked, mash them and add to the meat. There should be a little more than a cup. Place the meat in the pie crust and cover with another layer of dough. Coat the top with egg wash. Bake in 350 degree oven for about 45 minutes or until the crust is golden brown. Serves 6.

This blog post is part of a series highlighting recipes that interweave the culture and history of cooking in Vermont, and is related to the Vermont Foodways Digital Initiative.

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24-Hour, All You Can Eat…Local Food?

What if we made local food as accessible as fast food? As in available 24/7. Imagine a future in which our edible landscape is dotted with farm stands, teeming with fresh produce and products all day long and well into the night. Can you taste it?

For some the taste is lacking. An over-simplified recipe has been beaten into our taste buds: Fast food is cheap, abundantly available, and incredibly accessible (take a moment to count the number of McDonalds, Burger Kings, or Wendy’s in your town). Local food is expensive, seasonal (if you want strawberries in January, you’re out of luck), and hard to reach. It’s impossible. Or, so the chain restaurants, supermarkets, and Big Box stores would have you believe.

Yet, in a tiny pocket of Northern Vermont, one small farm stand, the result of equal parts sense and serendipity, is turning that paradigm on its head. What the farmers at the Darby Farm, a 200-year-old family farm in Alburgh, Vt., have discovered is that the road to food access is actually a farm stand on a country back road. Heather Darby, a farmer and agronomist at the University of Vermont, supplies customers with freshly-picked peppers, corn, beans, lettuce, carrots, and potatoes. People pay using the honor system.

And, guess what? It works. Community members appreciate the access to fresh, local foods; returning tourists look forward to the Darby Farm Stand as much as they do the warm Vermont sun, verdant hills, and other storied symbols of the season. The Darby Farm is itself a symbol of what’s possible when we think differently. And, you know you’re onto a good thing when the biggest game in town goes down the local route, as McDonalds’ is attempting with its new local product line.

But, this is more than a fairy tale – and McDonalds’ fast, albeit local, food, is still fast food, every deep-fried bite of it.

Studies have shown that improved access to healthy local foods corresponds to healthier eating and lower rates of obesity and diabetes. One study found that African Americans living in a census tract with a supermarket are more likely to meet federal guidelines for fruit and vegetable consumption. Another found that rural Mississippians living in counties without supermarkets were 23 percent less likely to meet guidelines for daily fruit and vegetable consumption than those in counties with supermarkets. New Yorkers and Californians living in areas with more fresh food retailers, along with fewer convenience stores and fast food restaurants, have lower rates of obesity. In Indianapolis, researchers found that adding a new grocery store to a neighborhood resulted in an average weight loss of three pounds for adults.

That’s science, not fiction.

In Vermont, we have much to be proud of. Local foods are accessible throughout our K-12 system with $2-3 million spent by public schools on purchases from local food businesses in 2010. Our state’s largest institutions – the University of Vermont and Fletcher Allen Health Care – have created innovative models for local foods purchasing and consumption.

There are challenges ahead. Income and cost remain an issue. Health concerns abound. While Vermonters tend to eat healthier than most Americans (38% of adult Vermonters eat fruit two or more times a day and 30% eat vegetables three or more times a day), we still suffer from obesity: 58.2% of Vermont adults were considered overweight or obese in 2009. That means higher risks for cardiovascular disease, diabetes, and some cancers. Twelve percent of Vermonters are food insecure.

Consumer education is a critical aspect of changing the numbers, but it is not enough. We need innovative models for accessibility. We need more Darby Farm Stands – and we need to invest in  their growth and success. Partnerships with grocery stores and supermarket chains, restaurants, schools, and businesses, are just as key.

Senator Sanders recently secured a $120,000 federal grant for the Friends of Burlington Gardens and the Vermont Community Garden Network to create a statewide, school-based summer gardening initiative for children. Let’s put more federal, state, and foundation grants to good use by developing sustainable and resilient programs and organizations that support access of local foods for all of Vermont’s families.

Let’s build the future we want to eat.

Alexandra Tursi is senior communications specialist at the University of Vermont Continuing Education where she supports the Food Systems Spire of Excellence. She is also a candidate in UVM’s Masters in Public Administration program, where her studies focus on the intersections of public policy, public health and food systems. Her favorite place to study (and eat!) is Red Hen Bakery in Middlesex, Vt.

Sources

Vermont Sustainable Jobs Fund. 2011. Vermont Farm to Plate Strategic Plan: A 10-Year Strategic Plan for Vermont’s Food System.

PolicyLink. 2010. Healthy Food, Healthy Communities: Promising Strategies to Improve Access to Fresh, Healthy Food and Transform Communities.

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