Resilience and Sustainability in the Food System

How can we cope with disruptions to our food system?

Resilience and sustainability are complementary, essential attributes of a healthy food system. One addresses relatively short-term responses to disturbances and the other addresses holistic management for long term stability. There’s no bright line between these two concepts but they aren’t the same.

For example, resilience is the ability to bounce back quickly from an extreme weather event by re-establishing food production and distribution, hopefully with improvements so that such events will do less harm in the future, while sustainability is the long term challenge to slow the rate of climate change so that extreme weather events won’t continue to increase dramatically in frequency and intensity.

Resilience is the ability to harvest, process, store and distribute food for a limited period of time when the electrical grid goes down or when fossil fuel supplies are interrupted, while sustainability is the ability to meet the food system’s energy needs from local, renewable, affordable energy sources.

Different metrics are needed to assess the resilience and sustainability of food system components. At the field level, resilience measurements might include: water-holding capacity of soil, ability to drain excess rainfall from agricultural land, buffering against wind and water erosion, biological activity rates, contaminant degradation rates, and extent of crop insurance coverage. Sustainability measurements might include: CO2e per unit of food produced, Btu fossil energy per unit of food produced, annual soil erosion rate, nutrient fluxes, and average net profit per unit of land over many years.

Some metrics can address both resilience and sustainability since they affect both long- and short-term outcomes. For example, measures of soil heath like compaction and organic matter content affect the ability of land to withstand short-term drought and flooding, and they affect long-term energy consumption (in the form of fertilizers, tillage, irrigation) and thus farm costs and profitability.

I suggest that there are three levels of work to be done, and that each level contributes to resilience and sustainability over a different time horizon. The levels are adaptation, mitigation, and transformation. Adaptation is coping with a problem in the short term. Mitigation is reducing the extent of the problem over the medium term. Transformation is solving the problem for the long term.

Adaptation, mitigation and transformation are not mutually exclusive; in fact, we need to work on all levels at the same time. The important thing is not to stop at the first two, because until we get to transformation, we’ll always be dealing with symptoms, without ever solving the underlying problems.

Let’s use Tropical Storm Irene and its impact on Vermont’s food system as a context for considering the three levels. The first reaction to such an extreme weather event is bound to be adaptation: how can we cope with this disruption to our food system? After Irene we realized that we need more effective crop insurance, better ways to treat flooded silage corn to minimize mycotoxin formation, and a rational system for testing soils and crops for contamination so that we will know what’s safe and what isn’t.

Mitigation looks ahead a little more, and after Irene we asked: how can we reduce damage from future floods? Possible strategies include: more durable riparian buffers, better ability to quickly harvest and store crops out of harm’s way, and use of alternative crops in flood plains that can withstand exposure to flood water and still be of value.

Transformation involves watershed-level changes in land use patterns and waterway management so that destruction to fields and property is avoided when excess rainfall can be absorbed and distributed across the landscape. Transformation also includes drastically reducing greenhouse gas emissions that drive climate change and contribute to greater intensity and frequency of extreme weather.

Comprehensive combinations of adaptation, mitigation and transformation are needed to address all of the big food system problems we face, from childhood diabesity, to loss of farmland, to the declining quality of food offered by the commercial food system. Here are some examples:

Imagine how much healthier children would be if every town had a full-time school nurse to help kids individually address their health and nutrition needs, if every school was funded to fully implement a farm-to-school education program, if underage soda consumption was illegal, and if school cafeterias all had the capacity, and a mandate, to serve delicious whole local foods.

Imagine how little farmland would be lost if productive farms were exempt from property tax, if there was a statewide farmers’ retirement fund, and if farming was recognized in statute and in land use planning as the highest and best use of fertile land for the greater public good.

Imagine how many new farmers we’d have if young people with the skills and experience could acquire farmland through zero-interest mortgages, if angel investors supported new farm businesses until they were successfully established, and if we more effectively documented and promoted the long term economic and environmental benefits of farms to communities.

Imagine how the purchasing power of consumers would change our food system if foods were required to be labeled with triple bottom line information. This could include the names and location of the farms that grew the raw ingredients; full disclosure of GMO, antibiotics or hormone use; descriptions of soil and water stewardship practices, and the ratios of fossil Btus consumed and greenhouse gases generated per calorie of food energy produced. This kind of information wouldn’t matter to everyone, but a whole lot of people, perhaps a critical mass, would respond to it. They would change what they eat and where they invest their food dollars – and that would enhance the resilience and sustainability of our food system.

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Video Snack: Melanie Cheng on Advocating for Farmers

Melanie is the founder of social enterprise FarmsReach and nonprofit Om Organics.

FarmsReach started as a web-based SaaS platform to facilitate regional B-to-B food distribution, and has since evolved into farm advocacy services to help farms become more financially and environmentally sustainable: financial services, access to inputs, and technical assistance.

With Om Organics, Melanie operated the first farmers market-to-restaurant co-op in San Francisco in 2002, and developed the OmOrganics.org website, a popular resource for consumers to learn about organic agriculture and find sustainably grown foods in the SF Bay Area.

She spoke at UVM’s Food Systems Summit in June 2012. To learn more about the 2013 Food Systems Summit, please click here.

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Food in Vermont: Weekly Events, 10/17-10/24

Heads up for the Week:

• The Food Systems Symposium is coming up quickly (just two weeks away!), and more details are out. Find them on our Facebook page.
• It Takes a Region NESAWG Conference is coming up on Oct 28-30th. All those working for food systems change should check it out. Register and find more information here.

Wednesday (Oct 17)

No events known. If you have food events for this newsletter, please send them to haylley.johnson@uvm.edu.

Thursday (Oct 18)

Feeding Nine Billion and Maintaining the Planet

Jason Clay, Senior Vice President Market Transformation for the World Wildlife Fund, will discuss his goal to create global standards for raw materials such as carbon and water and his work to improve the environmentally sensitive practices of agriculture and aquaculture.

5pm. Ira Allen Chapel. UVM Campus. Burlington. Free. Preregister here.

Fair Trade Café & Market

Snack and shop in a socially responsible way from vendors such as Ben & Jerry’s and Ten Thousand Villages.

11:45am–1:15pm. Farrell Room. St. Edmund’s Hall. St. Michael’s College. Colchester. Free.

Empty Bowl Dinner

Eat some soup (out of a ceramic bowl you can keep!) and salad to support at-risk and homeless youth. A cash bar and music by Guagua make this do-good dinner complete.

5:30pm. Elley-Long Music Center. St. Michael’s College. Colchester. $20-50.

Farmyard Story Time

How better to listen to a story than amidst cows and sheep? The Children’s Farmyard hosts the little listeners.

10:15–11am. Shelburne Farms. Shelburne. Regular farm admission, $5-8; free for members, Shelburne residents and kids under 3.

Bacon Thursdays

Attendees get platters of bacon that they can dip in a variety of sauces. Yum. Oh yes — there’s music and chatting too. Partial proceeds benefit NOFA-Vermont.

7–10pm. Nutty Steph’s. Middlesex. Cost of food; cash bar.

Friday (Oct 19)

Harvest Celebration Potluck

The community closes down their garden for the winter, and then feasts in honor of the season.

4pm. Community Farm. St. Johnsbury. Free; bring a local-foods dish to share and garden gloves.

Wind, Water & Pasture: Managing for Sustainability

Kevin and Christine Fuess use multiple energy and ecological conservation strategies on their 100 acre organic dairy. If you’re interested in wind power or sustainable energy for a small dairy, this field day is for you! Refreshments will be provided.

10am-12pm. 7874 Walter St. Oriskany Falls. NY. Free. Contact Violet Stone at vws7@cornell.edu with questions.

What’s Grain Got to Do With It?

As you prepare for the winter ahead, join NOFA-VT Farm Advisor Willie Gibson to explore ideas on feed sources and feeding strategies. Discussion groups will also cover long term strategies to enhance your farm’s feed energy production.

11am-2pm. Stony Pond Farm. 336 Emch Dr. Enosburg Falls. Free. Please bring a brown bag lunch. Contact Sam Fuller at sam@nofavt.org with questions. Also on 10/22, 10/23, & 10/24 at different locations.

Brick Church Concert to benefit NOFA-VT

Bread and Bones is a Vermont-based acoustic trio performing original music with a strong traditional-roots foundation. Made up of Richard Ruane, Beth Duquette and Mitch Barron, their sound is characterized by imaginative two- and three-part harmonies over solid guitar and bass work.

6pm. Doors open at 6; concert starts at 7. Old Brick Church. 100 Library Lane. Williston. $10 in advance/$12 at door ($8/$10 for children & seniors). Purchase tickets here.

Saturday (Oct 20)

Folding for Food Demo

Ten-year-old Val Laverty and his brother fold complex paper ornaments to support the Vermont Foodbank.

12–3pm. Vermont Artisans Craft Gallery. Burlington Town Center. Burlington. Donations accepted.

Blue Bandana Chocolate Maker Launch

Confectioner Eric Lampman shows the making of the chocolate bars from start to finish, honoring the launch of a new Lake Champlain Chocolates product line designed to celebrate American craftsmanship.

12–4pm. Lake Champlain Chocolates. Burlington. Free.

Oktoberfeast

The brewery hosts local vendors, live music, limited-edition brews, and factory tours to celebrate the month.

12-5pm. Magic Hat Brewing Company. South Burlington. $5 entry fee to benefit Vermont Food Bank.

Unlocking the Nutrients

Turkey Hill Farm’s Margaret Osha shows attendees how to soak their grains and beans before cooking. Recipes include chili, brown rice and a dessert.

11am–1pm. McClure MultiGenerational Center. Burlington. $5-10. Please preregister here.

Kirk Kardashian

The Vermont author of Milk Money: Cash, Cows and the Death of the American Dairy Farm discusses the difficulties surrounding the dairy market.

4pm. Billings Farm & Museum. Woodstock. Free.

Sunday (Oct 21)

Local Motion’s Annual Party

Wood-fired flatbreads, sled-dog rides, a bicycle carousel, Zero Gravity beer and kids games celebrate people-powered transportation and 13 years of this local nonprofit. Farm Barn.

3–6pm. Intervale Center. Burlington. $5; free for members. Please preregister here.

Stowe Restaurant Week

Delicious cuisine at prix-fixe prices? Sign me up.

12pm. Stowe. $15-35 per prix-fixe menu. Continues all week. More information here.

Monday (Oct 22)

Let’s Make Unsalted, Cultured Vegetables

Attendees learn about probiotic foods from personal therapeutic chef Tara Carpenter.

5:30–7pm. Hunger Mountain Co-op. Montpelier. $10-12. Please preregister here.

Tuesday (Oct 23)

‘The Dark Side of Chocolate’

You’ll think twice about your chocolate habit after this film. This documentary examines the child trafficking and slave labor that helps produce chocolate. Fair trade hot cocoa provided; discussion follows.

6:45–8:45pm. Room L207. Lafayette Hall. UVM Campus. Burlington. Free.

Homemade Mozzarella

Attendees learn the ease of cooking up some mozz at home.

6–7:30pm. Sustainability Academy, Lawrence Barnes School. Burlington. $5-10. Please preregister here.

Wednesday (Oct 24)

Food Day Panel

The University of Vermont’s Real Food Working Group will be hosting a panel to discuss how the Real Food Campus Commitment that was signed by the University in March will impact local farmers and the agricultural economy. The panel will be moderated by Dr. Linda Berlin of UVM’s Center for Sustainable Agriculture and is sponsored by the UVM Food Systems Spire. A reception with local, in-season foods will follow the discussion.

4:30-5:30pm. Chittenden Bank Room. Davis Center. UVM Campus. Burlington. Free and open to the public.

Mad River Valley Flood Resiliency Planning Meeting

Department of Economic, Housing and Community Development staff discuss issues surrounding the local watershed and how to better protect existing buildings, infrastructure, and more.

6:30–8:30pm. Town Hall. Moretown. Free.

Matt Rigney’s Book Discussion

This avid fisherman brings photos and video to illustrate his new book: In Pursuit of Giants: One Man’s Global Search for the Last of the Great Fish.

7pm. Town Hall Theater. Middlebury. Free; cash bar.

How Carrots Won the Trojan War …Rebecca Rupp’s Book Discussion

If you want to know, read Rebecca Rupp’s book (How Carrots Won the Trojan War: Curious (but True) Stories of Common Vegetables) or just come to this talk.

7pm. Kellogg-Hubbard Library. Montpelier. Free.

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What the SNAP Challenge Taught Me

Guest blog post from Marian Dickinson, a graduate student at the Johns Hopkins School of Public Health. She was a student in UVM’s 2012 Breakthrough Leaders Program for Sustainable Food Systems. She blogs at For the Love of Food.

I convinced my husband to do something a little strange with me for a week.  We only ate what we could purchase for $60–the average SNAP benefits for two people here in Maryland. It’s a challenge promoted by Maryland Hunger Solutions to encourage policymakers like Mayors, journalists, and average folks like myself to see what it’s really like to try to eat enough food and healthy food for a week on food stamps.

For three days, I brainstormed a menu for the week, searching recipe sites for simple lentil soup and cost-effective pasta. Two days before we started, my husband and I went to the grocery store armed with my Excel spreadsheet of meals for the week, a shopping list, a list of coupons downloaded to my loyalty card, and an iPad to serve as the high-tech calculator to keep us on track. And here’s what we brought home with us:

As we ate our way through all this food, we learned 5 big lessons.

1. Eating healthy on a budget is hard.
We are both typically healthy eaters. We like our fruits and vegetables, we like our grains whole and our food minimally processed. I already cooked from scratch most days. But I wasn’t accustomed to using quite so much pasta, rice, bread, and peanut butter. We went through an entire jar of peanut butter in a week! Our fruit and vegetable consumption was overshadowed slightly by our carbohydrate consumption for the purpose of saving money. Eating more fruits and vegetables would have meant eating less food, and that’s a scary premise when money is tight.

2. Making cheap food delicious and interesting takes time, skill, and creativity.
I came into this challenge with a few advantages.  I have been baking and cooking for nearly 20 years, I like to cook, I only work one job, and it’s just the two of us and we aren’t picky eaters. Planning the menus and shopping for this week took significantly longer than a typical week. That was time I could afford, and I enjoyed the challenge of the task. But not everyone has extra time, a love of cooking, or the luxury of only pleasing two palates. And although I’m proud that we took the challenge and managed to purchase groceries within our $60 budget, I have no intention of making this a long-term deal.

3. Hunger makes everything else harder.
Day 3 made this ultimately clear. Just spending a day walking around Annapolis and visiting the Naval Academy was more challenging when hungry. We got cranky and tired and just wanted to go home early instead of taking a boat tour like we had originally hoped. Normally, we could have just stopped and picked up a snack, or I would have brought granola bars to ward off hunger instantly. Instead we had to go back to our car to get our carrots and hummus out of the cooler and inhale them before driving home.

4. Feeling limited in food choices ruins good judgment.
This might sound harsh, but let me explain. My husband and I are typically very selective about what we eat. We prefer foods that we know will help us feel healthy. But in the grocery store and in situations of free or cheap food, our standards dropped. I would usually prefer whole wheat pasta, but for $.67 I’d take regular pasta on our SNAP budget. At the farmers’ market, my husband was not strong enough to resist a blueberry and cheese Danish when he heard them discounted to $1 at the end of the market day. On the first day after the challenge he also couldn’t resist a couple slices of bad pizza simply because he was now “allowed” to purchase it.  Selectiveness is a luxury for those who have many options.

5. Feeling satisfied and feeling full are two different feelings.                                    I certainly felt hunger during my week challenge, which wasn’t something I was accustomed to.  But I was always able to satisfy my hunger, even if it wasn’t with the most interesting meals.  In the portioning of food that was necessary to make $60 last a week for two people, we weren’t able to eat until we were full, at least not until the last day when we knew we could eat whatever was left.  At the end of each meal however, my husband and I both agreed that we felt satisfied and no longer hungry.

Here’s a snapshot how we did financially and nutritionally.

To learn more about the challenge, find some of the recipes I used for the week, and hear some of my husband’s thoughts, visit www.marianhd.com.

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Civil Eats Features UVM Farmer Training Program’s Robinson Yost

What does the future of farming look like? Robinson Yost, a student in UVM’s Farmer Training Program, talked to Civil Eats about social change, revolutionary ideas, being a minority in the American agricultural industry, urban planning, and the future of agriculture and food systems.

An excerpt:

“What is important to you about farming?

It resonates with me on a lot of different levels. The thing that originally got me into it which got me excited is this idea that food is the basis of everything that we do. In school I was doing a lot of work in terms of studying colonial histories and anti-colonial movements. I was looking at different ideas about social change and revolutionary ideas, and the solution I came to is that it all boiled down to food and food production. It all circles around this idea of how we are producing food, how are we feeding ourselves. That’s what keeps me excited about it. It could be a really transformative revolutionary thing that we could do in society. And on a day-to-day level, it’s working with my hands, being outside all day. And of course taking home fresh organic vegetables.”

Read the entire interview by clicking here.

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