Aiken Lecture 2012: Feeding 9 Million, Maintaining the Planet

This content was originally published by UVM University Communications as part of UVM Today. It was written by Joshua Brown. See original article by clicking here.

Over the next forty years — if we are to feed the planet’s burgeoning population — we must produce as much food as we did over the last eight thousand years.

Jason Clay of World Wildlife Fund speaks at UVM on 10/18 as our 2012 Aiken Lecturer

This is Jason Clay’s fundamental challenge to the world. And it’s the reason he thinks small-scale change in our food system won’t solve the problem.

“In Vermont and around the world,” he says, “business as usual and incremental change will not get us where we need to go.”

That’s why he’s a passionate conservationist who works closely with some of the largest corporations in the world — helping them re-imagine the ways they produce and purchase food.

“This increase in production is so dramatic,” Clay says, “that if we don’t find the right places and ways to grow food, the earth will be unrecognizable.”

Jason Clay will deliver the 2012 Aiken Lecture, “Feeding 9 Billion, Maintaining the Planet,” at the University of Vermont’s Ira Allen Chapel at 5 p.m., Thursday, Oct. 18.

The event is free and open to the public.

Seeking global standards

Jason Clay works for the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) as the senior vice president for market transformation.

As one of the world’s leading experts on certification in the food system, Clay created one of the first ecolabels and helped develop standards for more than a dozen commodities, from soy to shrimp, that reduce the impacts of production.

“Right now, the single largest impact of humans on the planet is food and fiber production,” Clay says. “If we continue to expand production into natural habitat, there will be very little natural habitat left by 2050.”

His lecture will focus on understanding the most important of these impacts — as well as myths about food production. There are “key trends in population, income, consumption, urbanization and trade,” he says — worrisome trends — “that should give us pause.”

Clay’s goal is to create global standards for producing and using raw materials, particularly in terms of carbon and water. He has convened industry roundtables of retailers, buyers, producers and environmentalists to reduce the key impacts of growing many products including soy, cotton, sugarcane, salmon, mollusks, catfish and tilapia.

“We now have 10 to 25 percent of global production and buyers sitting at the table for each commodity,” he says.

These gatherings and his visionary ideas are changing the way corporations — as well as governments, foundations, researchers, and NGOs — address risks and opportunities.

“There is no silver bullet that will allow us to freeze the footprint of food,” Clay says. “Every use of resources has impacts, but we must define which impacts are acceptable.”

Rainforest Crunch

Clay’s favorite flavor of ice cream is Ben & Jerry’s Rainforest Crunch, which he helped create — with sustainably harvested ingredients— after meeting Ben Cohen at a fundraiser featuring the Grateful Dead.

“The issue is not what to think, but how to think,” Clay says.

Clay ran a family farm, taught at Harvard and Yale, worked at the U.S. Department of Agriculture and spent more than 25 years working with human rights and environmental organizations before joining WWF in 1999.

Clay studied at Harvard University and the London School of Economics, and received his doctorate. in anthropology from Cornell University. He founded the award-winning journal Cultural Survival Quarterly and is the author of more than 300 articles and many books including World Agriculture and the Environment.

In addition to his WWF role, Clay is the first-ever Food and Sustainability Fellow of the National Geographic Society.

Clay was honored with a James Beard Foundation Leadership Award this year.

UVM’s Rubenstein School of Environment and Natural Resources will host Jason Clay’s visit to Vermont.

“No one has all the answers,” Clay says “but together we can solve this problem and leave our children a living planet.”

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Video Snack: UVM’s Heather Darby Says “Eat What You Sow”

Heather Darby is an Agronomic and Soils Specialist for the University of Vermont Extension. She received her M.S. from the University of Wisconsin in Agronomy and her Ph.D. in Crops and Soils at Oregon State University.

Being raised on a dairy farm in Northwest Vermont has also allowed her to play an active role in all aspects of dairy farming as well as gain knowledge of the land and create an awareness of the hard work and dedication required to operate a farm. These practical experiences complemented by her education have focused her attention towards sustainable agriculture and promotion of environmental stewardship of the land

She spoke at UVM’s Food Systems Summit in June 2012. To learn more about the 2013 Food Systems Summit, please click here.

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How Existing Policy Limits Our Ability to Make Change

Guest blog post from Lynn Blevins, Clinical Assistant Professor of Medicine at the University of Vermont. Lynn is trained as a field epidemiologist through the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention’s (CDC) Epidemic Intelligence Service (EIS). She worked at CDC both in Atlanta and as an assignee to the Vermont Department of Health in the areas of Immunizations, Infectious Disease, Environmental Health and Emergency Preparedness. At UVM, she is both faculty at the College of Medicine and staff at UVM Extension’s Center for Sustainable Agriculture where her work focuses on on-farm produce safety.

Recently Vermont Law School’s new Center for Agriculture and Food Systems hosted local and national experts on legal and policy issues related to agriculture at their Conference on Agriculture and Food Systems.

The 16 speakers and 5 panelists challenged us to consider topics of critical importance to sustainable agriculture including water quality, public health, genetically modified organisms, animal agriculture, federal farm policy, and agriculture in Vermont.

I’ve boiled down my 15 pages of notes to yield one common theme. Existing policy limits our ability to make changes in the food system towards sustainability.

Water Pollution

The Clean Water Act has successfully controlled point-source water pollution, but there is a non-point source exemption for agriculture. States have largely been reluctant to regulate, resulting in agriculture, abandoned mines, and suburban development as the last great unregulated sources of water pollution in the United States.

Public Health

Regulatory agencies (mainly FDA) regard products as safe unless proven not to be safe. In other words, instead of being guided by the precautionary principle, which would require scientific inquiry to determine safety before use, safety is assumed until proven otherwise. Such is the case for ~80,000 chemicals on the market not tested for safety and the lack of standards for many substances, including arsenic, which is known to cause cancer, in foods.

Genetically Engineered Crops

The regulation (or lack thereof) of genetically engineered (GE) foods is a prime example of regulations not meeting needs of the general public (the eaters). As biotechnology advanced in the 1980s, regulations for GE foods were pieced together from unrelated existing regulations (that’s right, no new regulations for GE crops). It gets complicated, but in short the following agencies are involved:

EPA – Regulates crops with an inserted gene from the bacteria Bacillus thuringiensis because the gene produces a toxin that acts as a pesticide (EPA regulates pesticides). EPA has imposed some planting restrictions.

FDA – Regulates food safety and has the power to regulate the labeling of GE foods, but is sticking to their opinion that no labeling is required because there is “no material difference” between GE food and non-GE foods. I would argue otherwise – that there is a material difference – an inserted gene and perhaps even a toxin. This seems so obvious, but again, it is being considered safe unless proven to not be safe.

USDA – GE crops are regulated under the Plant Protection Act, which concerns itself with plant pests and noxious weeds. However, GE plants are considered similar to their conventional counterparts (the fact that they are GE is not considered), which results in deregulation without Environmental Impact Statements and unlimited planting without monitoring (except, for private industry, which chooses to monitor quite closely to protect their patent rights). If you think you’ve read that incorrectly because it doesn’t make any logical sense, let me assure you that you have not. These plants are not being evaluated on characteristics related to GE, such as the increased herbicide use that accompanies GE crops, weeds’ resistance to the herbicide glyphosate, and the genetic contamination of organic and wild crops.

Grower agreements for GE seeds shift liability to farmers, thus preventing the organic community from going after the biotech company when crops are contaminated. In fact, the opposite is true – biotech companies go after organic growers when the organic crops are contaminated on the basis of patent infringement. Again, if you think you’ve mis-read that because it isn’t logical, let me assure you that you understood it correctly. The organic community has tried, without success, to use the judicial branch of government to prevent biotech companies from claiming patent infringement when unwanted GE pollen contaminates their fields. Legislative attempts at the state level, including here in VT, have not been successful due to law suit threats from biotech companies. Now we see California will take a different approach by bringing the question of labeling directly to the people through a ballot initiative.

One speaker referred to the regulation of GE crops as “The Grand Contortion” and “legal fiction that worked”. The lack of effective regulations around GE crops has resulted in the biotech companies essentially regulating themselves, gaining the upper hand over those who grow organic food and those who claim the right to know what is in their food through labeling, and causing yet-to-be fully determined environmental effects.

Animal Agriculture

There are no federal regulations on the treatment of farm animals, although they account for 98% of the animals humans interact with (by comparison, there are greater protections for domestic pets, circus animals, and zoo animals).  State anti-cruelty laws apply to farm animals, but are often ineffectively applied. Ironically, the anti-cruelty laws were created for farm animals, but they currently benefit the least from those laws.

The “Common Farming Exemption” exempts practices that might seem cruel to the average person as long as it is common. This provides the food animal production industry the power to determine what is cruel. Let me just say that most of us learned in kindergarten that two wrongs don’t make a right. Can’t we live by those rules?

Regulation of farm animals welfare in the US pales in comparison to that the EU, perhaps because we are uncomfortable talking about how our industrial food animals are raised or because we don’t see what goes on behind the concrete walls of a Confined Animal Feeding Operation (CAFO). Areas which need our attention include lack of space, procedures performed without anesthesia, an inability to carry out natural instincts, and overbreeding resulting in abnormal and uncomfortable body confirmation. If we, the public, cannot talk about this, how will it be regulated or voted on by ballot initiative?

The argument is often made that a sustainable animal agriculture system cannot produce the same amount of meat as the industrial system.  Might one (healthy) solution be to eat less meat, and when we do to channel our food dollar to ethical and sustainable productions?

Federal Policy

No agricultural policy conference would be complete without a discussion of the farm bill. Sticking with the (my) theme of the conference of policy limiting change, we now have a Farm Bill that has expired without a new farm bill to replace it. The Senate successful passed a bill with many reforms including replacing direct payments with crop insurance, and more investment into organics, local foods, and fruits and vegetables (referred to as “specialty crops” because they are not a commodity crop like corn, wheat, rice, soybean, or cotton).  While the Senate version had many improvements over prior Farm Bills, the House version was less sympathetic to sustainable agriculture systems. Congress was unable to pass a Farm Bill prior to the conclusion of the last session.

I came away from the conference disappointed, yet hopeful. Disappointed – that the existing policies do not meet our needs for a healthy food system. Hopeful – that it will improve through meaningful legislation and, when that’s not possible, ballot initiatives.

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Food in Vermont: Weekly Events, 10/10-10/17

Wednesday (Oct 10)

Sun to Cheese Tours

Cheese lovers get an inside look at dairy farming and cheese production.

2–4pm. Shelburne Farms. Shelburne. $15 includes a block of cheese.

Swede Midge Workshop

Swede midge is an invasive insect pest that has been found in Vermont since 2006, but is recently expanding its range. The midge attacks the growing tips of brassica plants. This workshop discusses what is known about the midge, how to monitor for the midge, typical damage signs, and the current best practices for controlling the midge in organic systems.

3-5pm. Intervale Community Farm. Burlington. Contact Yolanda Chen with questions at yolanda.chen@uvm.edu.

The Great Vermont Corn Maze

If the sun is shining, maze lovers get to try their hand at this massive field full of twists and turns.

10am. 1404 Wheelock Rd. Danville. $9-12; free for ages 4 and under.

Thursday (Oct 11)

Bacon Thursdays

Attendees get platters of bacon that they can dip in a variety of sauces. Yum. Oh yes — there’s music and chatting too. Partial proceeds benefit NOFA-Vermont.

7–10pm. Nutty Steph’s. Middlesex. Cost of food; cash bar.

ECHO After Dark

Investigate the flavors of Vermont in this terroir-based tasting of European wine and chocolate from Lake Champlain Chocolates’ new Blue Bandana Chocolate Maker line.

7–9pm. ECHO Lake Aquarium and Science Center/Leahy Center for Lake Champlain. Burlington. $15-20; for ages 21 and up. Please preregister here.

The Blind Café

Diners get to eat a vegetarian dinner … in the dark. This “sensory tasting experience” supports a local organization dedicated to improving the lives of the blind community in Burlington. Food is local, and a concert pulls the evening together.

7:30pm. BCA Center. Burlington. $45. Continues through Saturday. Purchase tickets here.

Hug Your Farmer Benefit Concert 

An All-Star Tribute To 50 Years Of The Rolling Stones earns money for The New Farmer Project, an initiative of UVM Extension. The all-star lineup includes Bob Wagner, Joshua Panda, Jon Fishman (Phish), and many others.

8pm. Higher Ground. South Burlington. Purchase tickets here.

Friday (Oct 12)

Social-Media Marketing for Agribusiness

Attendees get the scoop on using social media to achieve their agribusiness goals.

1–2:30pm. Langevin House. Vermont Technical College. Randolph Center. Free.

Das Bierhaus Oktoberfest

This Oktoberfest has plenty of German brews with themed games and a beard & mustache contest to boot. Aren’t you already curious which mustache will take the prize?

5–10pm. Blue Ribbon Pavilion. Champlain Valley Exposition. Essex Junction. $8; $10 for all three days. Continues through Sunday. Purchase tickets here.

Vermont Tech Dairy Processing & Commercial Kitchen Project Introduction

This talk introduces plans to develop a dairy-centric community kitchen at the Vermont Tech Enterprise Center.

2:45–4pm. Langevin House. Vermont Technical College. Randolph Center. Free. More information here.

Evening Fall Wagon Ride

Horse drawn wagons take fall lovers on a tour of the Shelburne Farm grounds. Rides leave at 6 pm, 6:35 pm and 7:10 pm.

6pm. Shelburne Farms. Shelburne. $7-15; free for kids under 3.

Sustainable Energy Field Day Series: Farming Off-Grid

Erika and Mauricio Medina will give us a tour of their small off-grid permaculture farm. The farm provides vegetables, eggs, raw honey, turkeys, chickens and wool from a small flock of Finn sheep. If you are interested in low-input, off-grid farming and homesteading, this tour is for you! Refreshments will be provided.

10am-12pm. One Earth Farm. 266 Blackman Hill Rd. Brooktondale. NY. Free. Please preregister here

Saturday (Oct 13)

Burlington Food Tours

Food lovers get a guided food tour as they are led through tastings from local restaurants and food producers. Tours start at East Shore Vineyards Tasting Room.

12:30–3pm. Church Street Marketplace. Burlington. $45. Purchase tickets here.

Southern Vermont Hike for Hunger

Support Hunger Free Vermont and get your hike on at this event that raises awareness of hunger and malnutrition. Check-in, 10 am; 1.5- and 3-mile loops, 11 am; community celebration with food follows.

10am. Grafton Ponds. Grafton. $25. Please preregister here.

‘The Leaf Peepin’, Cider Sippin’ Revue’

The ladies LeMay entertain the Three Needs crowd with music, skits, videos and election spoofs.

7pm, 9pm, 11pm. Three Needs. Burlington. $10.

Cabot Apple Pie Festival

Pies duel for the top prizes, and if you need a bit of a pie break, there will be a silent auction and a craft show to distract (but only for a moment, who are we kidding?) Proceeds benefit the Cabot Historical Society.

9am–3pm. Gymnasium. Cabot School. Cabot. Free.

Harvest Festival

Music by Tammy Fletcher & Trio accompany a wide array of samples form local restaurants.

10am–2pm. Community Education Center. Green Mountain Technology & Career Center. Hyde Park. Free.

‘The Summer of Walter Hacks’

Waterbury Center dairy farmer George Woodard’s film captures Vermont in the 1950s. Benefits the Intervale Center.

7pm. Film House. Main Street Landing Performing Arts Center. Burlington. $5-10 suggested donation.

Apple Tasting Extravaganza & Fruit-Growing Workshop

Attendees can munch on over 100 kinds of apples and find out how to harvest at home.

11am–4pm. Walden Heights Nursery & Orchard in Walden. Free.

Ciderfest 2012

Ciderfest 2012 will showcase the high quality sweet and hard ciders and apple wines produced in the region. If you make your own hard cider or apple wine, please enter our Stellar Cellar contest! Savor the tastes of Vermont while enjoying live music by Run Mountain and picking apples.

3–7pm.
Champlain Orchards. Shoreham. $18/person. Purchase tickets here.

Permaculture for Home & Garden

In this workshop, students will learn Permaculture principles as applied in temperate homes and gardens. We will discuss organic gardening, building with local natural materials, ecological lawn, meadow, stream and wetland care, orchards, composting, off-the-grid water systems, and domestic and wild animal management. Bring questions.

All day 10/13-14. Yestermorrow Design/Build School. 7865 Main Street. Waitsfield. $320. Competency Level: All Levels. Please preregister here.

Sunday (Oct 14)

Northfield CROP Hunger Walk

Walkers stroll to benefit CERV, which supports a local food shelf, clothing store and emergency-relief services, as well as the Church World Service.

2pm. Plumley Armory. Norwich University. Northfield. Donations accepted.

Doughnut Sunday

The orchard’s 45th anniversary and the making of it’s 1 millionth cider doughnut are celebrated. Benefits the Champlain Adaptive Mounted Program.

10am–4pm. Hackett’s Orchard. South Hero. $5.

Onion River Apple Grinder

This 33-mile dirt-road ride celebrates the season great cycling weather. Hot cider, applesauce and a bring-your-own barbecue party follow.

9:30am. Onion River Sports. Montpelier. Free. More information here.

Mushroom Walk & Talk

Join Robert Resnik and Stephanie Miner for a fun-filled walk and talk in the Hort. Farm woods followed by a lively discussion of your “finds”. Bring a basket or a paper bag, no plastic please.

10am – 1pm. UVM Horticulture Farm. South Burlington. Email info@friendsofthehortfarm.org to preregister (required).

Backyard Biodynamics – Canning and Preserving

Learn an array of canning and preserving techniques that will enable you to enjoy your Fall harvest throughout the winter months.

9am-4pm. The Learning Center. Hawthorne Valley Farm. 327 Route 21C. Ghent, NY. $45-$65 on a sliding-scale, lunch included. Please preregister here.

Monday (Oct 15)

Gastronomy Book Discussion

Readers discuss Paper Fish by Tina de Rosa as their food-centric book of the week.

6:30pm. Kellogg-Hubbard Library. Montpelier. Free.

Tuesday (Oct 16)

A Mosaic of Flavors

Goat meat Nepalese style is the focus of this cooking class led by Durga Bista.

6–7:30pm. Sustainability Academy, Lawrence Barnes School. Burlington. $5-10. Please preregister here.

Science & Stories: Pumpkins

Kids learn about the lifecycle of these festive fall squash.

11am. ECHO Lake Aquarium and Science Center/Leahy Center for Lake Champlain. Burlington. Regular admission, $9.50-12.50; free for kids 2 and under.

Natural Resources Conservation Service Panel Discussion

Join Valley Food and Farm, a program of Vital Communities, to learn about USDA’s Natural Resources Conservation Service in a panel discussion with NRCS Staff and local farmers. Stay for a mixer and refreshments after the panel!

6-8pm. Cobb Hill Common House. Linden Road. Hartland. Free. Arrive at 5pm for an optional tour of Cobb Hill Cohousing. Contact Valley Food and Farm for questions at (802) 291-9100 or maggie@vitalcommunities.org.

Growing Health 2012: Cultivating Farms, Food & Health  

We are excited to announce our fourth Growing Health. On October 16, we will debut a statewide meeting entitled “NYS Healthy Farms, Healthy People” to consider how agriculture in NY and the Northeast can improve the health of NY residents.  The day of learning and discussion will be crowned by the well-known evening tasting event featuring locally grown and produced food and beverages.  On October 17, there will be a conference for interdisciplinary learning and dialogue.

All day 10/16-17. Riverwalk Hotel and Conference Center. Binghamton. NY. Please preregister and find more information here.

Wednesday (Oct 17)

No events known. If you have food events for this newsletter, please send them to haylley.johnson@uvm.edu.

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The Not-So-Nutritious Transition

Visiting Burack Lecturer, Dr. Barry Popkin presents a copy of his book, The World is FAT, to UVM alumnus Mr. Dan Burack ’55 on the morning of the lecture.

The obesity epidemic is a problem facing the globe. Yes, yes, I know. You’ve probably already heard all about it on NPR, on the television, from Michelle Obama, your neighbors — the list could go on. But has anybody told you when and why it really became a problem?

Dr. Barry Popkin can tell you. When he visited UVM as a part of the Burack Distinguished Lecture series, tell us he did. The answer is all in humanity’s changing activity and consumption patterns, a process Popkin deemed the “Nutrition Transition.” This “transition” — the focus of Dr. Popkin’s research at the University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill — reaches all the way back into our ancestors’ hunter-gatherer days.

“What this story is about is really a biological mismatch,” he said. “On the one hand, we were created with all these sweet preferences, … with this biology where even if you drink something it doesn’t necessarily affect what you eat, [and with a] love of fatty foods.”

It seems evident that eating too much sugar and fat, as well as drinking one’s calories, will lead to overconsumption, but these tendencies were much needed in those early days of foraging. Food was not always available, and eating fats meant humans could sustain themselves in times of scarcity. If we drank liquids and then ate less, we might not have gorged ourselves on food when we had infrequent access to it. Not gorging could mean starvation later. Sugar came attached to highly nutritious fruits. Throw all those factors together along with our dislike of backbreaking work  (“Has anyone ever planted rice?” asked Popkin) in a modern world where calories and technology are plentiful, and bam! You have obesity … right?

Yet Popkin maintains that this is not the end of the story as one might think.  Up until the 1940’s, overconsumption of calories was at first only a problem for a few amongst the rich. The wealthy had all the servants and food security, but they also had the money to compensate for the limitations of being overweight. Even then, however, not that many individuals were overweight.

Once we reached the 70’s and the 80’s, things began to change.  “In the high income world our food [and activity] patterns changed dramatically, … we watched TV, we started eating away from home, we went from eating one snack every other day to eating two or three or four,” Popkin said. “We started eating a lot more calories and working a lot less, and obesity and overweight exploded.”

The technology of the 70’s and beyond also ensured our daily energy expenditure, aka burning calories, declined. The mechanization of heating food (microwaves), of washing clothes (washing machines), and of traveling (cars and buses) means that we don’t burn as many calories.

Despite these changes in the relatively wealthy Western world, there were still poor countries that had slim and starving populations. Obesity was not yet a problem of the poor. However, Popkin told of how he watched this change almost overnight while he was doing research in China. In 1989, no one was overweight. In 1991, the story was completely different — obesity had now become a problem of the poor.

“That same technology that got to us, got to them,” Popkin said to the crowd. “A country like India is going to have 100 million diabetics in a few years, just to give you a sense, and that’s the country that has two thirds of the underweight in the world today.”

100 million. Well, dang.

So we know the history of the problem, but the solution is not so clear. The “magic bullet,” as Popkin put it, is not evident, except for possibly sugar-sweetened beverages.

Soda and fruit juice — yes, fruit juice is a sugar-sweetened beverage — are two culprits that, if we eliminated them, would cut a significant numbers of calories, according to Popkin.

20% of Americans get 900 calories a day from sugar added to their diet, and another 20% getting 500 calories, which is quite a bit if you consider that 2,000 calories is approximately the amount an average person is supposed to eat.

Popkin believes that changing our diet back to one that has plenty of fruits, vegetables, and grains is another important shift that can help solve this problem. The catch, he said, is that this diet is not affordable and accessible for everyone, nor do we even produce enough produce in America to feed everyone this way. What is affordable and accessible are the processed, packaged, fatty, and sugary foods.

While this seems extremely daunting, Popkin remains determined to find a solution, whether that would be improved labeling, the banning of soft drinks, or WIC vouchers for farmers markets.

“We really want to benefit America rather than just those who can afford it,” he said.

Haylley Johnson is the Program Specialist for the University of Vermont’s Food Systems Spire — the University-wide transdisciplinary initiative to promote food systems research, education, and outreach. Prior to her time with the Spire, Haylley graduated from UVM in 2011 with a dual degree in English and Economics, and concluded her four years there as the Editor in Chief of The Vermont Cynic, UVM’s student-run campus newspaper. The paper won the 2011 Pacemaker Award — the Pulitzer Prize of College Journalism — under Haylley’s and her successor’s tenures. She has also written for Seven Days, the local alt weekly, as their first-ever food intern and is generally known amongst friends as a walking encyclopedia of eating establishments in Burlington proper.

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